Ideas for "TT-Tracks^©" the Mini TT Modular System

Module Bases

The first modules were made on a foam base made from a Woodland Scenics 12" x 24" foam sheet cut to length. This method has worked well and makes a nice light module.
Now that we are no longer doing 'Donught' diplays where each side must be the same length as the opposite side, there is no reason why you couldn't use the full 24" of foam. Be aware that there is no easy way to make 24" with Bedding track. You will either be cutting a track piece to fit or making the module a bit shorter than 24".

Longer foam modules would work but might have a strength issue if they get too long. Also be aware that longer modules come with transportation issues.

Two early modules were made on a thin plywood base. The plywood edges were braced with small basswood strips to prevent warping. This produced a strong light module.

Wood painters canvases have been used for module bases. There are many useful sizes. Be aware that they are not always square and may not be the exact size listed.
Three 24" Square canvases were used as the base of three large corners. Some fudging was necessary to allow for their non square shape and nominal six. They served us well for many years and are stored serviceable.
One 12" x 24" frame has been acquired to use for a #8 crossover module.
Two 12" x 48" frames have been acquired for a projected run-through passenger station.

Larger full wood framed modules are OK. Be aware that these have a weight and transportaion issue. One modeller who has doen this built his modules in pairs that bolt together to make a transportation box.

There is no reason why a module could not extend to the front or rear of the standard size if the scene you are making requires it. Be aware of the transportation issues for these non standard modules. Also be aware of table sizes. If the module extends too far to the front or rear such that it would over hang the table edge, it must be rigid enough to not sag.

Levelling Modules

Some modules have leveller feet at each corner. These are usually adjusted by a screwdrive through holes in the tops of the modules. We carry an extensive collections of shims in various thicknesses, from thin cardboard, to matt board, to plywood squares of various thicknesses.

Track

Ballasting Track

Non Bedding track needs ballast. There are several brands that are close to the bedding track colour, or you could choose your own color.

Bedding track has its own built in ballast but it does not look very good. Experiments with a black wash have improved the appearance but it still does not look like ballst. New experiments with adding proper ballast to the Bedding track have given interesting results. If you take your time you can get a good looking result.
Also burying the Bedding track improves its appearance.

Name Tags

Sometimes we will need name tags to identify us at events. Here is a suggested format. The second name tag is filled out for Trains 2011.

Make TT accessories or structures or adapting other scale items to TT to work on these small modules

Here are two converted N-Scale items. The blue item is a Kato N-Scale rerailer split and widened to TT Gauge. The black item on the front left is an Atlas N-Scale girder bridge split and widened to TT gauge. The girders are a bit low but it will do for a light duty bridge.

Non 90 degree corners

If you use Bedding Track any angle in 15 degree increments will be easy. Of course this limits you to sharp curves, R3 Max.
For broader radius curves you will need to use flex track.

Junctions

There are 15 degree crossings so that junction would be easy. Any other angle will require scratch building crossings.
A Flying junction could be done with a group of modules.

Misc

Thoughts on connecting tracks that don't cross boundaries at 90 degrees.
This has proven to be easy to do with a G1 or G2 straight or a 15 degree curved piece.